We are all familiar with dishwasher tablets. Recently, more and more mass-market products are reviewed and joined by a new version in solid, waterless format. Speciﬁcally, let’s speak about waterless solid cosmetics.
Waterless cosmetics is an emerging trend nowadays in the cosmetic industry, being considered an alternative sustainable solution to water-based products. No doubts we are facing an environmental issue at global level. Water will be soon considered a luxury ingredient in many industries including the cosmetic one. Furthermore, harmful global emissions are generated to move products with water as main ingredients, as well as tons of single-use plastic containers are wasted. Our impact must be significantly reduced to meet contemporary climate-change targets; even more so now that sustainability is being measured across the entire supply chain. Waterless cosmetic products are not the only solution to the environment issue, but they can help out.
What are the advantages of these products?
They are many and can affect all the players of the cosmetic supply-chain. Firstly, the formulation. Water-based products generate bacteria after some time. Products without water do not face this challenge and formulation can be preservative-free. Secondly, the packaging materials. Being naturally water-free, it is possible to use more sustainable forms of packaging such as simple paper or cardboard. Thirdly, the impact on the environment. Waterless products, being extremely concentrated, are less heavy, and reduced in volume which translates into a reduction in CO2 emissions while transporting. This makes them extremely practical also in your hand luggage when you take a ﬂight.
At which stage are the beauty companies?
Waterless beauty was born in Korea in 2015 and after a slow growth, it is having a real boom in the last year. From a few start-ups, today even the most famous brands have started investigating the possibility to offer soon hair, skincare and even makeup products that do not contain water. This revolution presents challenges for the players in the cosmetics sector because used to offer only products in liquid or semi-solid format. It is necessary to develop new formulas, using sustainable ingredients of new generation, which being in solid form (powder) need to be handled and processed differently.
I imagine that beauty companies are seeking out partners that can help them navigate and stay ahead of this fast-changing market. How can IMA help them?
IMA Active – which is the division specialized in solutions for the processing of solid dosage products – has more than 40 years of process experience. We can support customers in becoming familiar with all the steps necessary to develop their ﬁrst solid and water-less product, being not just a machine supplier but a premium partner for customers who are approaching these processes for the ﬁrst time.
Let’s make an example. If I wanted I wanted to make an anti-aging cream in tablet form, what would IMA do for me?
Once developed a basic formulation – for which we can provide contacts among raw material suppliers and formulator consultants – and produced small samples to test the texture and functionality of the water-less formulation, customers are ready to check if their product can be industrialized. We start from our Laboratory, where through the characterization of the mixture we can predict the formula behavior inside the tablet press. Based on the results, the most suitable machine conﬁguration to test the product is chosen and, if necessary, we give advice on the formulation characteristics, and propose dedicated technical solutions to achieve the best process optimization and a beautiful, ﬁnished product.
We are aware that to conquer the consumer it is necessary to be able to satisfy different needs. Is it possible to process different products on your tablet press?
Of course, yes. Our PREXIMA tablet press is extremely flexible. Switching from one ormulation to another is a very simple operation thanks to the innovative design of the machine which allows reduced cleaning times. The shape and size of the tablet can also be changed easily. And if blends require different parameters, just save them in recipes to be recalled when needed. Many of our customers are impressed by the fact that the machine self-adjusts, thus guaranteeing high quality in terms of shape and weight of the produced tablets. This is very important when looking for optimal single-dose functionality. The machine does everything by itself, making the life easy even for unskilled operators.
In addition to tablet presses, is IMA Active able to offer anything else?
We offer both process and technological support also for mixing, granulating, coating steps. Furthermore, we collaborate on a regularly basis with the other companies of IMA Group to offer the customer everything is needed as primary and secondary packaging up to the end of line.